Are you under tension?

 "Never adjust your tension" truth or myth?  MYTH!

I don't know how many posts I have seen online and on social media posts of people stating you should never adjust the tension on your sewing machine. This is not true. 

Different elements can affect your tension. Fabric type and thickness, thread type (and brand), thread thickness, even thread color can affect the tension on a sewing machine. 

Some folks have been told by who taught them how to sew or by their sewing machine service technician to never adjust the tension. The latter is so you will bring your machine in for service more often. (Typically yearly).
You may be more comfortable letting a sewing machine technician make the adjustments for you.

However, you may just need to understand what unbalanced tensions look like, and how to make small adjustments to correct the issue. 

If you are experiencing problems with your stitches, the first thing to do, is replace your needle.
It might be getting dull, has gotten bent, or may be the wrong type or size needle for the fabric you are sewing.

Next check your thread. Is the upper thread and the bobbin thread the same type and thickness?

See Is your thread breaking.

Okay, you've checked your needle and the thread you are using, but still having stitch issues. 

Next un-thread your machine. 

  • Cut the upper thread by the thread spool
  • Lift your presser foot
  • Pull the thread down through the thread guides toward the needle
  • It's best not to pull backwards the thread up toward the thread spool.
    • This can cause thread lint to get caught in the tension disks

Check what the upper tension dial is set to. Most modern sewing machines have a mark on the upper tension dial, in the mid-range usually around 4-6, or place that is marked Auto. if it's set outside of the 4-6 range/auto, change your upper tension to Auto or about 5.

Re-thread your machine: for testing use the same brand & weight of thread, but different colors for upper and bobbin thread.

  • Always thread your machine with the presser foot raised.
  • Thread your machine per your machine's user manual instructions.

Next, remove your bobbin. 

Take a look in the bobbin area. Is there a bunch of lint in there?  If so it's time to clean under the needle plate. 

Get yourself a cotton swab, a pipe cleaner or a small brush to grab the lint. 

  • Never - ever use canned air and spray down into your machine to clean the lint!
  • This will not only push all that debris further into your machine and pack it in around gears and electronics
  • Lint build-up on circuit boards can cause them to over-heat and fail.
  • Most canned air has moisture in the propellant, that can harm the internal workings of your machine
  • Especially if your sewing machine has internal electronics


If you're not comfortable doing this. If you are local to me, please schedule a quick clean appointment.

If you are comfortable taking your bobbin case out, give it a drop of clean sewing machine oil on the edge of the the hook race. Check out my Add a drop of oil page


If you have a top load bobbin. Place the bobbin in per your machine manual directions.

Most top load bobbins are placed in the bobbin case so they turn counter clockwise. 

  • Place your finger on top of the bobbin to hold it on place.
  • Guide the thread through the first metal guide 
  • and up the second guide toward the left side.
  • Pull enough thread to leave several inches on a thread tail
  • Don't pull through the thread cutter, if you machine has one (for testing purposes)

Pull the upper thread to give yourself several inches of a thread tail and pull the upper thread below the presser foot.

Holding the top thread, turn the hand wheel toward you; counter clock-wise so the upper thread grabs the bobbin thread, and pull the bobbin thread up through the needle plate.

  • If there is thread in your sewing machine always turn the hand wheel toward you. 
    • Especially important if you have a vintage Featherweight!
    • Otherwise you will be visiting me to untangle the thread behind your hook race.

Grab a scrap quilters cotton, or cotton fabric (I starch mine for testing & adjusting the tension), fold it in half. Always test with two layers of cotton fabric.

Set your upper thread tension to the center line, auto or about 5, depending on how your tension wheel is marked. If you have a vintage machine that doesn't have any numbers marked, try to set about 1/2 way between very loose & tightened all the way.

First stitch a straight line & check how your tension looks.

Then stitch a zig-zag stitch, set to a mid-length & mid-width. It's easier to see the tension with a zig-zag stitch.

Check and see how the stitches look. Do the stitches look the same on both sides of the fabric? If so, great. your stitches are balanced.

But, if the top stitches look good, but the top thread is showing on the underside of the fabric? If so, your top tension is too loose.

If the bobbin thread is showing on the top of your fabric, then your upper tension is too tight.

If your stitches are not balanced when the upper tension is in the middle range, then it is time to check the bobbin and make sure the bobbin is in correctly. There could be lint or thread causing issue with the bobbin case tension. or the bobbin case may need a slight tension adjustment. If you are comfortable adjusting the bobbin tension on a top load / drop in bobbin type machine visit How to adjust the tension on a drop in bobbin case.

You may also check the user manual for your specific machine for images of how balanced stitches should look, and tips for your specific machine. (Many user manuals can be fount online, if you don't have the one that came with your machine.

This is the art of fine tuning the stitch balance on your home sewing machine.


 

 

 

 


 


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